Saturday, January 18, 2014

Day in Etosha National Park and beyond

Day in Etosha national Park and beyond

Day 4 & 5: 20 - 21 December


The 'pan' of Etosha
Right after breakfast we left for Etosha National Park. Just a short drive of about 20km. Right at the entrance to the Etosha National Park we saw a lion couple lazily lying under a tree. As we spent 2 days in Etosha - I have listed the many animals we saw (for both days) on day 2.
We returned at 17:00, and had just enough time for a walk at the lodge, freshening up and meeting again for dinner and talks about the sightings for the day at 19:00.
The chef outdid himself again and we were served with a 
vegetable quiche (starter), folllowed by Oryx steak, sweet beans, Springbok meatballs, grilled chicken, pepper sauce, penne, spiced rice, and a variety of salads.
Lion couple
For our second day in Etosha we got up at 4:30, packed our suitcases, packed the bus, had breakfast at 6:00, and left the Etosha Safari lodge at 6:30. 
We entered Etosha at the same gate as the day before and around the next corner the lion couple from the previous day had headed to the nearest watering hole 'Ombika' where 3 more lions joined, and we spent plenty of time just observing & photographing. 
Springbok @ the watering hole
We continued to Okaukuejo and drove along the dry pans to Namutoni where we bought some snacks for lunch. 

At the next watering hole 'Klein Namutoni' we had a picnic lunch in the vehicle whilst watching a herd of giraffe, an African fish eagle, red billed ducks and some jackal. From there on we continued to and exited at the 'von Lindquist' gate.

Blackbacked jackal tacking a sip
The animals we saw along the way through our Etosha drive were: 5x lions at Ombika, Burchell's zebras, Springbok, Blackfaced impala, Steenbok, Blue wildebeest, Red hartebeest, Giraffe, Ground squirrel, Spotted hyena, Warthog, Banded mongoose, Blackbacked jackal, Ostrich, Kori bustard, Northern black korhaan, Grey hornbill, Southern yellow billed hornbill, Burchell's sandgrouse, Pied crow, Cape crow, Grey go-away-bird, Secretary bird, African fish eagle, Tawny eagle, Greater flamingo, Red billed teal, Southern pale chanting goshawk, Lilac breasted roller, Southern masked weaver. 
The full list of birds viewed is on www.birdscontour.blogspot.com


African fish eagle

Tawny eagle
Greater flamingo 

Leaving Etosha we then passed Tsumeb, a mining town, and Grootfontein and reached a wonderfully green pasture and inviting guest & cattle & agricultural farm Ghaub. They have lovely little chalets in the green pasture, huge shade trees, horses grazing in the field, absolute calm and peace.
Panoramic view from the Ghaub mountain
On Ghaub we did a hike up the mountain, what a beautiful view! We saw the clouds move in, but weren't aware, that they were so close and inevitably got cought in the rain. Actually it was really refreshing, but I was concerned about my camera and could only hide it under my T-shirt, as we sought shelter under a tree, to safeguard us against the worst of the shower, and waited until the rain subsided. Fortunately the shower did not last longer than 10 minutes.
Immediately nature seemed to have revived and all birds started to sing, chirp, call. Little warthogs grazed in the thicket. A Red-billed hornbill posed for me - sitting on the branch after the rain.

Red-billed hornbill after the rain
Playful Tree squirrel
Returning to the chalets I took a hot shower, warming me from my raindrenched clothes. We met for dinner and had butternut soup, Kudu roulades, green bean fritters, roast potatoes in pepper sauce, and for dessert light pear cake with custard sauce.

After dinner it started to rain again, and we returned after a very eventful day for a good nights rest.












Sunday, January 12, 2014

Going West: Sossusvlei to Swakopmund

Going West: Sossusvlei to Swakopmund

Day 2: 18 December

At 'A little Sossus lodge' we had a strengthening breakfast. From our bungalows towards the dining room of the lodge we saw tracks of Springbok and Kudu. Some guests reported seeing a Kudu in the night, feeding on the bushes next to the bungalows. As the tracks were next to the lodges pool as well, I suspect, that the animals came to drink there too.
Fresh fruit salad and little crumpets were the highlights of this well rounded breakfast buffet.

We left at 7:00 on the dusty and very corrugated road, passing through the Namib Naukluft Park. There were plenty of oryx, springbok, ostriches as well as a small jackal and pale chanting goshawk.
The landscape is savannah with soft yellows changing into light greens and the soft grey mountain ridges at the back. Then it changes to interesting rock formations. Some Mountain Zebra posed calmly for all the tourists to have enough time for pictures. 
We had a quick tanking stop in Solitaire and bought some of the world renowned apple pie.
Further on we passed the Kuiseb Canyon. 

Dry riverbed: Kuiseb canyon

And admired the landscape of the Dorob National Park, with its winding rock formations and arid soil. A highlight was the Martial eagle perched on a dry tree.

Shortly thereafter we entered Walvisbay and drove to admire the pelican at the lagoon. There we also saw the endangered rock swift, gulls, and seals.

From Walvisbay to Swakopmund we saw plenty of anglers and holiday makers. 
Swakopmund lighthouse

Grey-headed gull @ Swakopmund
After a short round in this picturesque town we came to our lovely guest house accommodation. We settled in and then went to town to have some lunch, a stroll, a shopping spree, take pictures and enjoy the ocean breeze. Others took a short nap. In the evening we met at the seafront restaurant 'The Tug', which offers a wide variety of delicious seafood, but also other dishes. Driving back to the accommodation we admired the Christmas lights lining the streets.


Inquisitive giraffe in the bushes
On 19. December we left Sea-breeze guest house after a hearty breakfast, at 7:30. Travelled through the little towns of Usakos, Karibib, Omaruru, visited an orphanage at Kalkveld, passed Otjiwarongo and stopped for lunch in Outjo, at a little bakery.
At 35ยบ outside temperature, it was wonderful to see big white fluffy clouds gather together....

Our accommodation for the night was the Etosha Safari lodge. 

Shortly after arrival we took a guided walk through the lodge park, seeing several giraffe, a bush baby and leopard tortoise.
Dinner was at 19:00 in the restaurant which is styled as local shebeen. 

Background music @ the shebeen
Dinner started with a tuna cocktail, the main course consisted of a buffet of kudu roulade, eland medallions, beetroot & green salads, baked garlic potatoes and basmati rice. With live african guitar music and singing in the background we thoroughly enjoyed the good food and warm summer evening.

A heavy storm brewed close to us and we heard thunder and saw the lightning in the distance, and I even heard some rain in the night.

Tuesday, January 7, 2014

Starting the new trip through Namibia

On the road again - new trip through Namibia

Day 1: 17 December
Having planned to do a northern trip through Namibia, but being a bit overwhelmed by the long distances to be covered and finding the right time to do it, I was very excited when I heard, from a tour operator, that a tour group from Europe wanted to do a similar trip. There was a bus and a tour guide and still a space available, which I quickly booked.

The foreign tourists arrived on Monday (16 Dec 2013) and did a tour through our lovely capital city. The day was concluded with dinner at a local restaurant.
Early on Tuesday morning, 7:00, we packed the bus and left for the South of Namibia. Yes, not straight away to the North, but taking a detour southwards and then towards the coast, before exploring the North; to see the best of what Namibia has to offer. 
The first part of the journey was tarred road and shortly after Rehoboth (89km South of Windhoek) we went on to gravel road. (as for namibian gravel roads: any powerplate machine fades in comparison) 
We reached the Namib Naukluft Park at lunch time, after  several pitstops to refuel (ourselves and the car:-)
View from top of dune 45
Shortly after entering we stopped at 'dune 45' and had the opportunity to climb up. Going up higher, the wind became stronger and I felt slightly sandblasted. But the view from the top is stunning.

Important things to remember: wear sunscreen, a hat, take water, protect camera equipment with a dustproof bag.
The scenery is stunning, ochre dunes, caramel flat sand plateaus, dark silhouettes of dead trees, an Oryx lying in the shade of a tree with still some greenery, the wind blowing over our heads, and on the other side mountain ridges in various geological layers.

Leaving the dune we drove to the dead vlei and heard the fascinating history of this nature phenomenon. Amazingly fish are in hibernation in this dry 'dead' riverbed, and can survive there for up to 6(!) years, until the next rainy season. We had to go by 4x4 to the vlei.

Deadvlei surrounded by dunes
The dead vlei is surrounded by dunes and its white sand and black tree stumps are in contrast to the red dunes 
surrounding it. 

On the way were Springbok and Oryx, hiding from the scorching sun, under some trees (which sprout green leaves, from some underground water)

Important to remember: high up closed shoes with socks, as the dune sand easily runs into the shoes and is burning hot.
A little lizard accepted our offer of
water from a bottle cap,
who knows where he'll get his next drink.

Very satisfied with the ample photo opportunities we started our return journey. From the Jeep we moved back into the bus and travelled to our accommodation for the night: ,A little Sossus lodge'.

Little stone bungalows with view onto a watering hole welcomed us. After the opportunity to freshen up, (wonderful hot shower) we discussed the day over a delicious dinner of a homegrown mixed salad, prunes wrapped in bacon, very tender beef fillet, with crisp baked potatoes, and malva pudding in vanilla sauce.

The night was very warm, but the beds very cosy. The many impressions of the day carried me into dreamland.