Way back home

Way back home

Diamond smugglers car
in Klein-Aus Vista

Last day: 29 August

The road back was good, although closer to Windhoek there was more traffic. It was harder to overtake the big trucks.

We enjoyed our South-Namibia road trip. I loved the changing sceneries, the variety of lodges, the great hospitality, the delicious food.

Dry riverbed @ Desert-Horse Inn

Anything I would change or think of next time: take more cash with me, as it is not always easy to draw 

money in the little towns, and many lodges do not 

accept card payments.

Sunset @ the Inn

I was happy: that I took enough water and snacks; 

had my camera on hand; had great travel company - my kids;-)

Total kilometers driven 2101km

The next road trip will be heading North - looking forward to it

Holiday coming to an end

Holiday coming to an end

Day 6: 28 August

After a long 5 1/2 hour drive (475km) from the Cañon Roadhouse (1.5 hrs on gravel) we reached the Kalahari Farmhouse in Stampriet. An Oasis in the Kalahari Desert.

We got two interlinking rooms with 2 bathrooms, 5 beds and plenty of cupboard space. All decorated in farmhouse style with pretty quilt overthrow blankets and mosquito nets. There even was a hanging mat between two palm trees right in front of our entrance.

Farmhouse tranquillity

The rooms are spacious and cool, and we felt very special and appreciated the luxury.

The bungalows are spaces in an oval around a huge lawn and a little water channel runs through the garden with its huge palm trees. Some ducks waddle around and a tame Springbuck with its ( adopted) family of sheep walks between the trees and grazes on the lawn. There are plenty of photo opportunities of the buildings, the garden, the farm implements and farm animals.

The lodge produces and distributes (to the other lodges in its group) meat, cheese, yoghurt and vegetables. It also grows grapes, cactus figs; has its own mineral water spring, fresh eggs. A friendly staff member will show you around the dairy, butchery, vegetable garden and the likes.

We could relax in the tranquil garden with the little stream, the rustling of the wind in the leaves and the abundance of birdlife.

Dinner was served in a big dining room, lovingly decorated and kept warm with 3 fireplaces - although it was not too cold outside.

The food was well prepared and proportioned. There was a choice of two starters, one could have had both: samoosas with salad, or a homemade vegetable soup. The main meal either pork spare ribs with rice and fresh vegetables; or beef steak with the same accompaniment. For desert was a dark chocolate cake with cream - super delicious and well done;-)

We went to bed fully content. 

After a quiet night contributing to very deep sleep, we awoke to a stunning Kalahari sunrise. (sounds like a name for a yummy cocktail;-)The ducks were quacking in a distance and the birds started chirping in unison.

Kalahari sunrise

Breakfast starts at 7:00. A traditional buffet breakfast: variety of cereals, fruit salad, home made yoghurt, boiled eggs, croissants, cold meats and cheese platter from the own butchery and dairy. Coffee, tea, hot chocolate and fresh juice. The kitchen offers scrambled or fried eggs with smoked bacon. Vegetarians and special diets are taken into consideration.

The lodge has 2 curio shops with some interesting goodies.

We were reluctant to leave, as this was our last day of the journey, and also one of our favourite lodges. 

Our rating for this lodge was 9.5

The Cañon experience

The Cañon experience

Day 5: 27 August

We packed our bags and loaded the car. By now the kids knew the drill and packing went really quick, and at 9:00 we left The Desert- Horse- Inn and headed towards the Fish River Cañon.

We decided to head for the Hobas Canyon view point first, before checking into our accommodation. The gravel road from Seeheim to Hobas feels like there is no end. Driving on gravel is slower, although there is hardly any other traffic. We arrived at the Hobas campsite entrance and had to pay for a permit to get into the nature reserve. Then continued for 10km on gravel to reach the viewpoint. The viewpoint has a lovely shaded area with benches and tables and we decided to have a short lunch there with our remaining snacks. The view over the canyon is awesome, an I am glad we did the trip, although the gravel road is so long.

Cañon viewpoint

The way to the Cañon Roadhouse is not that long and we soon arrived at this very unique lodge in the middle of nowhere. The old cars and parts and tools and signposts are all cleverly and interestingly arranged outside and inside the buildings and offer different views everywhere. My son found it utterly fascinating. My daughter and I enjoyed the world renowned 'Amarula cheesecake'.

Roadhouse lodge

The rooms are arranged around a courtyard and are all decorated with pictures of old cars. The courtyards have huge shady trees and well placed machinery 'decorations'.

There is a swimming pool next to the dry river bed, and a hiking trail, which we only took a short way up the mountain to have a wonderful view over the whole establishment. ( the full hiking trail takes 1.5 hrs)

Dinner is 'à la carte', and we had game sosaties (kebab); chicken schnitzel, and beef steak, with chips, beetroot and carrot gratin. All very well spiced and presented and very tender. The staff was very attentive and the atmosphere (between all the artefacts) cosy and friendly.

Old car decorations

The rest of our evening we spent reading and playing cards. And slept very well after the long day.

Breakfast started at 7:00. Each table gets a whole flask with hot coffee and fresh milk. There is a breakfast buffet with fresh fruit, a variety of breads and muffins, cereals, cold cuts and cheese, and from the kitchen eggs as you wish with or without bacon. 

After breakfast we packed up and still browsed the little shop. Paid our bill and left for our last destination of our road trip.

This accommodation also received a 9 from us.

Way back through the desert

Way back through the desert

Day 4: 26 August

The B&B next door offered breakfast for walk- in customers and we inquired whether we could eat there. They were very welcoming and offered us a variety of breakfasts from their menu. We opted for the omelets and were not disappointed. They were delicious. With fresh coffee and juice.

After packing up, we were again on our way, leaving at 9:00. As Lüderitz was still in sleep mode on this public holiday we went in search of the Agate Beach. It is reached via an inland detour and past a lagoon teeming with birdlife and some Oryx and Springbok. A long stretch of beach which we had entirely to ourselves and could enjoy the fresh air, a long walk, picking up some shells.

As I had filled up my car the previous day, we could leave for our way back to Aus without delay. 20 km before Aus is a watering hole for the 'Wild- horses- of the desert'. As we arrived @ 12:00, there were many many horses, in a distance also a group of Oryx and some Ostriches. Fascinating to watch and photograph.

Desert horses & Oryx

After the Photo session with the horses we drove to the Desert Horse Inn and checked in again, this time getting another bungalow than the first time. The interior finishes were different and a bit older, but nonetheless as comfortable as the previous time. We decided to not have dinner at the Inn, but rather a good lunch in Aus at the 'Bahnhof Hotel'.

This proved to be a real treat: Calamari salad with Tzatziki; Beef Schnitzel with chips; Butternut stuffed with spinach - our respective meals. As dessert we had Ice cream with chocolate sauce; Ice cream with Amarula &nuts; Strawberry cheesecake. :-)

We returned to our lodge and decided to go on a hiking trail. There are several to choose from, from short and easy to long and for more advanced hikers. We took the short (1.5 h, 4.5 km) one, and calculated to be back just before sunset. The path is clearly marked and we enjoyed our walk through nature. Most fascinating were the ramparts in the mountains, which were left there from the 2 nd World war. 

Ramparts

We saw Kudus and Ostriches. Towards the end we lost the signs of the trail and decided to follow the river bed, seeing the lodge in the distance, and we made it back just in time before sunset. 

Taking a hot shower and drinking some hot chocolate was the perfect ending to this eventful day, and I was already looking forward to our next destination.

The next morning we decided to head to breakfast later, to escape the tourist groups. Half an hour later we had the breakfast room almost entirely to ourselves, and no queues to wait in. 

Breakfast had a slightly different selection than the previous time, but very hearty with a great variety.

I was very impressed with this lodge and the friendly, well organized staff. My rating : 9

Heading West on the southern trip

Heading West on the southern trip

Day 3: 25 August

Ruins @ Kolmanskuppe

After leaving Klein-Aus Vista we arrived at the ghost town  'Kolmanskuppe' @ 9:30. A guided tour around this protected diamond area is @ 10:00 on Sundays. It is most fascinating and interesting to see some ruins, some well kept and some restored buildings of this deserted village. The guide was very knowledgeable and stories of long ago let the history of this place and the country come to life. After the tour we walked around the old buildings and found Photo opportunities everywhere we turned.

I could have stayed longer, but wanted to reach our destination Lüderitz before lunch. So we left at 11:30. Lüderitz is just 10km from Kolmanskuppe, but we took a detour to Diaz point.

Wading Flamingos

Past desert landscape, lagoons with many flamingos, strips of beaches with anglers we found the light house and the Diaz cross.  From there we drove to a secluded beach 'Grosse Bucht' which seems to be a favourite beach of the locals. It was getting cold and windy, so we just took some pictures of the pink flamingos and left for Lüderitz. On our way we saw some springbuck, which seem to be plentiful in this area.

We arrived in this picturesque little town @ 13:30 Only a few roads are tarred but road names are well displayed. We found our accommodation quickly, as it has signs well positioned. 'Island Cottage' on Shark Island is a beautiful self- catering accommodation. We had 2 single beds and a pull out sofa- bed. It has a bathroom and kitchenette with stove and fridge. Even a TV and Wifi were there. The receptionist gave us the keys and showed us the basics. There was some info on the town, where to go and what to do in the room. As it seemed, we chose an inconvenient time to visit this place, as on Sundays and public holidays everything is closed. Lüderitz closes its shutters, rolls up the pavements and goes to sleep.

So we went on a sight seeing tour on our own accord. Stopping everywhere for Photos and having a lookout at where one could buy something to eat.

The 'Felsenkirche'

We found a beach and stretched our legs a little; climbed out at the waterfront and looked at the ships in the harbour. I had to draw money as I wanted to fill up my car. There are 4 ATM's - one for every bank represented.  My banks ATM would not give more than N$500, as it could not hand out more than 40 bills. Is it only stocked with N$10 bills? I tried one of the other ATM's (which cost me more on banking fees) but at least I could draw money. 

Lighthouse

We found a petrol station which was open on Sunday and could refuel.

A little walk around Shark Island was next and then back to our cottage. Fortunately I had brought food along, and we cooked in the little kitchenette. Although I would have loved to try some of the highly acclaimed oysters in Lüderitz.

So how do you spend the rest of the afternoon and evening, after having driven around the town 5 x and seeing all there is to see? We relaxed in the comfy room, watched a movie on TV, played some cards and retired early. We slept well in this peaceful and quiet surrounding.

This accommodation deserves a 9.5

Going further South - day 2

Going further South

Day 2: 24 August

After breakfast at the tented lodge, we left at 8:00 for our next destination down South: the Gondwana Desert Horse Inn @ Klein-Aus Vista. It is an approximately 4 hour drive or 495km. 

We refueled in Mariental. From Mariental to Keetmanshoop is a somewhat boring route. Thereafter from Keetmans to Aus the scenery changes often. The mountains give a movie like sometimes surreal surrounding, then changing into dry grassland and then desert nothingness.

Aus is a tiny village and Klein- Aus Vista just a way on. Little Bungalows in a ranch style are built facing West and the nature park. 

Bungalow @Desert Horse Inn

Our rustically decorated 3- bedroom room was lovely. Cuddly duvets, blankets, even hot water bottles (for the very cold nights - it has been known to snow in Aus). There is also a fridge, where we could keep our drinks cold.

The staff is very helpful and knowledgeable. 

Several hiking trails, a mountain bike trail and guided tours are offered.

We went in search of the prisoner of war ruins, which are mentioned on the map to be 'to the East of Aus'.

As the info centre in Aus (which is open even on weekends - according to info leaflets) was closed.... we went to the police station to ask for directions. The officer on duty had to run off to ask someone else. However he gave us directions which we duly followed. Going West from Aus and turning off to Rosh Pinah, we would find a sign. We found the sign 'POW ruins' and ended up at the railway station in the middle of nowhere. Turning back on the gravel road we looked closely and found tiny mounds of stone resembling ruins. There is an obelisk with a plaque as memorial. The remnants of the ruins are few and almost level with the ground, but we saw what it must have been like living in the tiny huts as prisoner in the second world war. Apparently they had 500 mud-and-stone huts for 1700 prisoners.

POW ruins

We turned back to our lodge as it was getting cold and we wanted to get ready for dinner.

Dinner is served in the timber framed dining room, with view over a picturesque sunset. The starter, a delicious mushroom soup is served by our waitress. The main meal is a buffet, which is great when traveling with children, as they can choose the food and the amount to their own liking. There was a choice of lentil bobotie, pork spare ribs, rice with herbs, butternut, cauliflower and broccoli curry and a selection of salads: beetroot with apple and walnuts, a Greek salad and apricot rice salad. The yummy desert was served by our waitress again, the perfect finish to our meal a chocolate hazelnut slice:-) 

We slept very well and awoke early - with a Kudu walking past the entrance of the bungalow. 

Breakfast is from 7:00, and there were plenty of guests already. Mostly the tour groups which were up for an early start. The breakfast buffet is colourful   with a healthy variety.

Various cereals, oat porridge, scrambled eggs, little sausages in tomato sauce, chocolate croissants, farm bread with cold meats and a cheese selection, a fresh fruit salad and a variety of yoghurts. Coffee, hot chocolate and many teas to choose from. The scrambled egg was the top favourite and was refilled 4 times in the 20 minutes, that we had breakfast. We decided to have breakfast later, the next time we would be here.

We left early (8:15) on our way to Lüderitz.

For the lovely bungalow, friendly reception and tasty meals we give this lodge 9. (out of 10)

Road trip through southern Namibia

Road trip through southern Namibia


Where do I take my children during the school holidays? Somewhere interesting, that fits into my budget; somewhere neither of us has been before; somewhere new everyday; somewhere I can fit into a week?
Living in the capital of Namibia, we used to go to the coast or to South Africa for the holidays. This time should be a road trip through the South of Namibia. A long distance cut into shorter distances to drive every day, interesting sites to see, new experiences, and a challenge for me -as I have never driven such a long distance before.
After consulting with friends and family, and researching the internet, I decided on several lodges and on various stops which I have always wanted to visit.
I packed clothing for a week and healthy snacks, fruit and plenty of water and iced tea. Filled up my tank and decided to leave after work on Friday 23 August.

Day 1 : 23 August
We left from Windhoek @ 14h00, 190km to Kalkrand and found the Teufelskrallen Tented Lodge. The staff welcomed us very friendly with a glass of juice and explained to us the way to our tented accommodation, 1km on. He said, that at 18:30 there would be dinner at the old farmhouse (no mention of prices, menu or the likes).
We were the only guests that day, and had the last, most private tent in the row. The tent-houses were great, very clean, although with a timber floor where dust will always come in. The shower and toilet are outside with a view from the WC onto the watering hole. 
The wind was blowing and the temperature icy. We did not want to shower that night and hoped, that the next morning would be warmer. 

We took a short walk through the farmlands but did not see any wild.
At 18:30 we went to the dining room in the old farmhouse - mentioned before, we were the only ones. So we had the waiter all to ourselves, we felt observed. He was very attentive, and served us the set menu.
Starting with a white onion soup, which tasted good, albeit a bit salty. The main meal was beef steak (a bit tough) with sweet butternut, roasted potatoes, sliced green beans and carrots. Because we had a starter, the full main meal was too much, and neither of us could finish.
Throughout the whole meal we felt as if the waiter was watching our every move, and it felt a bit odd.
We drove back to our tent. There was a double bed, overlooking the waterhole; and a camping stretcher with a camping mattress on top. The duvets were great, and there were extra blankets. It was a windy night, but we could snuggle under our duvets.

View from the tent

The next morning was cold, and I ran to the outside shower, in a dropper fenced enclosure, linked to the tent with a bridge. Quickly took a shower, washed my hair, and ran back through the cold into the tent, to get dressed. My children did the same, and were glad, that they could get dressed in the warm(er) tent. I guess in winter, one should shower in the afternoon, when the sun is warmest and the wind not as strong.
Breakfast consisted of cereal, or toast with some cold meats and cheese. One could ask for scrambled or boiled eggs. Two waiters were watching us this time. We paid after breakfast ( this had been included in the booking price). But I got a shock when seeing, that they charged me N$200/pp for our dinner the night before.
All in all it was worth the experience. Sleeping in a tent, well equipped with a fridge; very clean; a stunning view from the top of the dune; and well prepared food. The staff was very friendly, although a bit too much in our face.
Would I stay there again? Maybe, but with more people around at dinner and breakfast. Or maybe eat @ the tent.
My rating 7.5